Among
homeowners, one of the most persistent wintertime complaints is ice-dam
damage. The sight is familiar across the Snow Belt: a house with snow
drifts on the roof and a mass of ice at the eaves ends up with water
damage in its attic, walls, and ceilings.
The
cause is heat escaping through the attic, which melts a layer of
snow on the roof immediately above the shingles. The melt water
is insulated from the cold air above by the thick blanket of snow.
The water trickles down to the eave and freezes there because the
eave is colder than the roof above. The cycle repeats itself until
the ice at the eave forms a dam that literally blocks melt water
from draining off of the roof. It's only a matter of time before
the water backs up under the shingles and drips down into the attic
where it soaks insulation and drips into living spaces below, potentially
ruining wallboard, paint, and just about anything else that's susceptible
to water damage.
How
do you keep it from happening again next year? The key is adequate
insulation and ventilation, but it's sometimes a tough fix. Start
by placing vents in the soffits and along the ridge to ensure a
steady flow of cold air under the roof deck. Added insulation on
the attic floor will keep the heat inside the house (where it belongs),
but make sure that the insulation does not block the soffit vents.
Finished attics must provide unobstructed cold-air channels between
the soffits and ridge to ensure that the roof deck is not heated
by thermal energy leaking out of the attic living space.
An
excellent low-cost look at ice dams and how to avoid them is provided
by the booklet Roof Snow Behavior and Ice-Dam Prevention in Residential
Housing ($3.50 postpaid). To order, call the Extension Service
Distribution Center at the University of Minnesota: (800) 876-8636
-- include the booklet item number when ordering: NR-BU-0507-PM1.
-- Roy
Berendsohn
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